COLOMBIA TGC Journey

 Dear readers,

I am excited to be representing my country as a teacher ambassador to the great nation state of Colombia. I have prepared extensively for this opportunity, and I just cannot wait to sip the freshest coffee in the world

Now, as I begin to prepare, I realize that I do not have an appropriate suitcase for a 15 day stay--so I have started checking all the thrift stores to find a great deal.

I am looking forward to seeing the Colombian team of teachers because we will have the trip of a lifetime.

MH



July 15th (Day One)

Dear readers,

Part 1
After a hectic day of preparing my suitcases for travel for the rather disparate climates of Bogota and Cartegena, I was ready for the day if travel. My wife kept warning me to not procrastinate, but I failed to listen. If she had not prepared my suitcases, I would have been doomed. The flight to Houston from Charlotte provided an excellent repast for some reading and napping. I always cringe at the puddle jumper jets, but at least I had the window seat. Flying above the clouds reminds me what amazing feats man has accomplished, and, to a greater extend, I am humbled.The shadows of the clouds on green land that resembled lakes, the immensity of the Atlantic, and the mighty python that is the Mississippi River filled me once again with wonder for God's creation. I landed safely in Houston.

Part 2:  Technical Gremlins

I had fully intended to complete a Powerpoint for my future Cartagena students, but, alas, the universe had other intentions. I tried to upload photos from my iPad, but, apparently, I failed to download a software update. So, I ordered Internet access and began downloading--a three hour estimated process; unfortunately, after about an hour,  My MacBook Pro had apparently used all its battery power. And, my iPad was completely dead as well, so I struck out to find a charging station--but neither the MacBook nor the iPad would charge. I tried plugging in my smart phone, and I bent the connector--so the phone was out of commission as well. Needless to say, I was completely tech free for most of my airport stay--so I read instead.


Part 3: Currency Travails

After a non-eventful customs check, we met Nicolas and Jill, our Bogota consultants, and headed to the Hilton, located in the Business District. I had dinner with four of my colleagues, but I was aghast at paying $21.000 for the cheapest item on the menu--spaghetti. Later, my Spanish speaking colleague, Jessica, explained that in Spanish the period is the decimal and, of course, the menu used pesos. $11 for a meal in such a wonderful ambiance was certainly not exorbitant. Lesson learned.

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July 16th--Day Two

Part One: Briefings

TGC's in-country consultant, Nick, delivered a two-hour Powerpoint that covered everything from the pre-Colombian history of the region to the present day, including the country's public-private system. The poor attend public schools, while families of even the most modest means scrape and work double shifts to send children to private schools. Nick also presented us with another side of the terrorist organization, The FARQ, which does fill a protective role in the jungle regions that the city-focused national government does not. There are always two sides to every story.

However, after visiting the US Embassy, where we received a safety debriefing that can be summed up in this one cause/effect sentence: "If you hail a taxi, presume that you will be kidnapped." The head of embassy security had absolutely nothing but harsh words for the FARQ, an organization that seems intent on disrupting American interests and killing American embassy agents. 

Part Two: Monserrate

The trip up this grand mountain, which climbs into the sky at 10, 300 feet, defies all attempts at explanation. The mountain is most definitely a sacred place--a place where you can touch the clouds and look out into all of the city and view humanity in all its beauty and ugliness. The whole scene reminded me of a crowded Lego landscape with carefully crafted skyscrapers and countless hastily shewn shacks, as if the city planner just lost interest in the details. The church took my breath away, literally, because one must climb the last 300 feet in steps to reach it. I prayed for a few moments in the sanctuary, lost in the splendor of artistry of the early Spanish monks.

Part Three: Dinner

We had dinner at the lovely Club Colombia, where I ate a lovely  dish that consisted of rice, coconut milk, and camerones (shrimp). Special thanks to Nick who helped explain the menu selections. We all shared a variety of typical Colombian desserts. I devoured most of my Helado de champús, which consisted of an ice cream comprised of a native bitter sweet fruit and coconut cream.

A perfect dinner full of camaraderie and delicious food, not to mention the ambiance of a crackling fire and excellent service.

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July 17th-Day Three

Part One: Poor School

Wake up call at 4:30 AM to arrive at the Institutio Educational Distital Fanny Mickey, a mega school built onto the hillside field that once was used by gangs to sell drugs. North of the school is one gang; south another--and, as explained by the school's principal, the mayor of Colombia suggested placing a school in disputed territory because it would be difficult for a child to kill a classmate. Climbing the five flights of stairs exhausted me because the altitude sickness seemed to attack me, but I persevered.  Our group of 9 asked pointed questions about the Colombian education system, and we learned that each year, all students have a say in developing the school rules, which must then be compiled and sent to a committee pf parents and community members. I thought this an excellent strategy to build some sense of autonomy as well as accountability when the rules are student created. The principal also serves on a committee that consists of educators, parents, and gang leaders; the committee meets when trouble begins to brew in the community. The principal takes the position that it is better to involve the gangs because they are present and are members of the community-at-large.

My colleagues and I observed the secondary classroom of Professor Tatiana, where students sang for us. I specifically requested they sing the National Anthem--and the verve which these marginalized and poor students sang the love of country truly amazed me.

Part One (b): Abandoned and Alone

I cannot speak Spanish. I should have prepared more to familiarize myself with the basics. At some point, I became separated from the group-at-large because an elementary student asked for my autograph. Within seconds, a swarm of nearly a hundred students started pushing toward me for an autograph as if I were some kind of celebrity. Kids were shoving, elbowing, and pushing forward. I do not remember feeling so absolutely at a total loss. I could not understand their words, I signed my name as quickly as possible, and tried to calm the crowd. FINALLY, Sra. Tatiana found me--and whisked me away to observe a classroom. The mob scene, however, had disturbed me. Surely, these students had met a white man like me before, but not many "Gringos" step foot in this area of the city. I was told that these students had never even been to Monserrat, and that traveling a few kilometers away was referred to as leaving Bogota.

Part One (c): Q/A with representative students and faculty

The students asked us questions, such as our place of origin. Sra. Tatiana asked us to describe how we would use our experiences, but the highlight of the session came when a teacher uttered these words:

"Thank you for visiting our wonderful students, who are ignored by our politicians and the mayor because they are not deemed worth their time. You have showed our students respect by your presence and they will understand that there is a world beyond theirs."

The meeting was held in a library---without books. :(

Note that coffee is a staple for a school start of 6AM.

Part 2: Politicians Collide
 
The TGC fellows met with the Manager of the National Exams Board, the ex-direcor of SENA (tech college), and the ex director of Oxford University Press, Colombia, as well as a member of the US Embassy who spearheads bi-lingual programs. The debates among these four leaders in response to our various questions represented epitome of intense. I am thankful their battles commenced with words and not machetes. The Ex-Director of SENA felt that technical education reigned supreme and should be supported unconditionally and railed against the current teacher education programs, while the two others toed the party line.

Colombia faces the same issues we face in the US. Do we permit our government to control standards? Or, do we recognize that different areas require different skills sets?





Today was a most exhausting day.

Next, I visited an English  teacher's classroom. He was trying to prepare students for the required English proficiency exam, yet the

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